![\"spoolbox:](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.pianola.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/spoolbox-before.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nI already discussed the\u00a0tracker bar in the previous post (briefly), so let\u2019s move along to the transmission. Transmissions work in conjunction with the converted rotational energy of the motor, to make roll turn smoothly, and then rewind at the conclusion of the roll. Additionally the transmission is connected with the tracking mechanism, which is another important device for smooth play of the roll. More on that later.<\/p>\n The transmission is a collection of metal shafts, sprockets, pinions, gears and chains, all mounted on a metal frame which is either stamped or cast. Metal which has been poorly cast has a tendency to oxidize and crumble over time (e.g. a century), so if you have the misfortune of an otherwise potentially nice action with a ruined transmission frame, you have little choice but to source a replacement.<\/p>\n Stamped actions are not without inconveniences. In my case, there is no way to disassemble the frame, as it was riveted together (a short-sighted cost savings). The following picture illustrates why this is a problem, when trying to remove the pinion shaft.<\/p>\n There are seven points of business on this shaft. There is not enough clearance to slide away the pinion (4) or large sprocket (5) so that the Woodruff key (3) can be extracted. The solution suggested to me by John Tuttle was to spread, gently but firmly, the frame apart to gain a few extra mm to accomplish this. It was a bit tricky, but with some snap-ring pliers and medium wooden shims, I was able to make it work.<\/p>\n Once that was done, the bottom shaft also gave me some trouble, because the set screw of the large gear had \u201cbuggered\u201d (technical term) the shaft; overtightening caused a circular burr to form around the screw, and the burr makes the shaft very reticent to release the gear. Again some elbow grease is the answer, but it needs to be done the smart way \u2013 not carelessly! Support the frame with some wooden blocks and tap out the shank enough so it becomes free. You can then file a small groove in the damaged part of the shank, and replace the set screw (credit for this idea, also John Tuttle). Once it is all back together, you can set it aside for now or put it back on the head shelf. Once the other head components are ready, it all must be put back together and calibrated.<\/p>\n Oh yes, don\u2019t forget the lube! Traditionally this has been graphite-based lubricant, but this can turn into a sticky, gummy mess over time. Even 3-in-1 Oil attracts dust. I was recently recommended to try Marvel Mystery Oil, which is an automotive additive. It is supposed to lubricate well, and as its viscosity is on the low side it doesn\u2019t get so gummy. We\u2019ll see how it works!<\/p>\n So let\u2019s see here\u2026 in terms of the \u201chead\u201d of the player action, I think I will actually just begin with the clean up of the spoolbox hardware and transmission, before moving on to the first significant challenge \u2014 the motor! The hardware on the spoolbox should be intuitive to remove after some examination \u2013 … Continue reading Head: Spoolbox + Transmission<\/span> <\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nAfter the pieces have all been cleaned (with solvent), polished, rinsed (if necessary), and buffed, you are ready for reassembly! Yay!<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>