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<\/a>Now with that done, test again<\/strong>, to make sure pneumatics are still tight. Close them and then seal all the trunk intake channels. If they offer stiff and continued resistance as you pull them open (firmly, but gently), and you don\u2019t hear any hissing, leaking noises, you should be good. If ever you get the odd leak at this stage, you can probably bet (by process of elimination) that it is between the pneumatic and the trunk. If you can localize it you should be able to then neutralize it, with a few drops of Phenoseal \u2014 ask me how I know! (wink, nudge)<\/p>\n Now remount the hardware, again being careful not to bend the crankshaft as you reassemble everything. Next the slide valves. And you\u2019re done! Or are you?<\/p>\n Last but not least, let\u2019s check the timing. As with comedy, timing is everything! There is a mechanical sweet spot to be had, where the motor works at optimum efficiency (just like any combustion engine, including the one in your vehicle).<\/p>\n There are a couple of different ways to look at this, but basically you want all the valves set the same, and you want them all to begin the \u201cpowerstroke\u201d just after the valve closes. You can refer to Reblitz 41 for more details, or also John Tuttle\u2019s tidbits here<\/a>, or here<\/a>.<\/p>\n Once you feel confident, you can take it for a test drive! It should run fairly smooth, even at very low speeds. You can use a vacuum cleaner if you don\u2019t have a test pump, but note that this is not the ideal testing device. It may make the motor appear to turn in a lurching manner. I have read that most of the good motors are overengineered to run even if not perfectly regulated, so as long as you get it as good as you can, that\u2019s probably good enough!<\/p>\n Here\u2019s what mine looked like, as an initial test run after rebuild:<\/p>\n